Article on "in Gaggiano with the Guidi Magenes brothers we touched the sky with a finger"

Challenge to Michelin Guide: go to Magenes

But the Michelin inspectors will have filmed this year, given the scarcity of novelties: no three stars, very few two, a few stars here and there. Among these - hear hear - the Nazionale di Vernante, which we have been driving for twenty years, always with the highest marks, tried again this year in June. They discovered it too, you understand? With a chronic delay, oh well. Chapeau to the Kresios restaurant in Telese Terme which this year was awarded among the 15 best lunches of the year by our guide (but the chef didn't come to Golosaria, while yesterday he went in a hurry to Franciacorta. Sigh).

We're making sense of it – sorry for the long parenthesis – in Milan there were more than 700 restaurateurs at the presentation of the guide, and it was a joy to see the faces of those chefs where people willingly go to eat. As always, some starred were missing, which are also becoming rare in our guide, not so much due to the disregard, which only makes us smile, but due to the fall in the so-called quality/price ratio or the rudeness they sometimes reserve for our undercover readers or inspectors. And here the casuistry would be really substantial. That said, while the sponsors race to support the event of a French guide that every year demeans the value of our cuisine, compressing it, there are also those who say that Michelin is always right even when it's wrong. Which is perfect regime reasoning, where reason is given to those with some power, in this case the media.
That said, while the sponsors run to support the event of a French guide who every year demeans the value of our cuisine, compressing it, there are also those who say that Michelin is always right even when it is wrong. Which is perfect regime reasoning, where reason is given to those with some power, in this case the media.

Having said this premise, we now come to the challenge, why I'd like to know what he might not like about the cuisine of Dario Guidi Magenes at the Antica Osteria Magenes from the hamlet of Barate di Gaggiano or from the service by his brother Diego Guidi Magenes, in the dining room.
We were there on November 5 (2021), on the eve of Golosaria, and in addition to being pleased with our inspectors (the plural is a must, because many went there willingly, beyond the official assignment), we have truly touched the sky with a finger: for the cuisine, for the service and the wine list, for that elegant, festive, totally Italian family atmosphere (ouch ouch ouch Michelin, too much Italian right?). Understand, here the menus are not divided into appetizers, first and second courses, but based on the sensations that the restaurant arouses, written in Milanese dialect.
“Per cumincià apena seta giò…” (Italian translation for the French: to start as soon as you sit down) here is the selection of the fabulous Bettella salami with fried dumplings and sweet and sour vegetables; the twist of foie gras, its ash, figs and peanuts; lamb tongue in fricassee, ossobuco “Magenes” style. The sweet and savory tomato soup is superb, with sea urchins, parmesan and lemon. Look at it in the opening photo: is it or isn't it a work of art? The limoncina gnocchi, Mazara red prawns and salted almonds are superb.

Now let's move on to “Ciciarem un cicinin” (let's chat a little). The risotto Giallo Milano 2010 is fantastic and made with rice that used to be in Golosaria Milano (Isos di Spessa – Pavia). They won an award in 2010 and it hasn't made it off the menu since then, as it comes out of the kitchen with its perfection. But there is also risotto with Dorno pumpkin and lobster, while the spaghettoni are made with oak-smoked butter, Po oysters and bergamot. Another first course, brescina-style rabbit plin with smoked eel. But you understand the level of creativity and precision in tastes what have they achieved?

For the main courses (“Tirem inanz cun la paciada…”) here is the jugged hare with soft Jerusalem artichoke, or the majestic mallard, figs, tandoori, black sesame humus and Bordeaux sauce. Then the BBQ pigeon will be remarkable, with coffee and pistachios and the iconic Milanese cutlet with “Robuchon” purée (finally something French, come on!).

The cheese trolley anticipates the desserts, one better than the other: roasted chestnuts in Piazza del Duomo; TiramiSud'America: Brazil coffee, Salina caper Bavarian cream and dulce de leche; EGG not EGG: primordial tart; White chocolate, fruit and tuna roe and Kakigori: freshly flaky ice cream, fior di latte, yuzu and ginger.

You will also be happy with the three tasting menus, including "Milan, back to the future" with 7 tastings for 70 euros. Sorry for the rant, but these are the boards that really shine. These are our RADIANT CROWNS (But if you become famous, will you also turn your back on us like the three stars on duty who came to visit us until yesterday?).